The next instalment

3/10 (roughly) Get the boat from Embankment down to Greenwich. It's one of the Thames Clippers which travel regularly and are not specifically for tourists. A dog adopts Ann and its owner explains to us how London should ban tourists. In the 30 or so years we have travelled up and down the river, it is amazing how it has changed with almost every bit of the riverside filled up now. It's always a great journey. The new Greenwich Pier, promised for the Millenium, is now being built, as is much of London where Olympic fever has led to the usual urban revamping that the event brings. Go through the centre of Greenwich which, if anything, is grubbier than it used to be, though the University of Greenwich seems to be expanding its territory even further. Arrive in the park and wind our way up to the Observatory. A few squirrels pop out to see us. At the top there is still one of the best views in the world, looking out over London. Another spot where you realise how much has changed, with all the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf, the Gherkin and the soon to be completed Shard (the largest building in Europe). St Paul's is still there. Walk down through the centre of the University and bump into Andrew Dawson. Claiming to be the oldest member of the School of Humanities he brings us up to date with gossip and laments, in his time immemorial manner, the appalling nature of University management.

After lunch in the very sunny Victoria Gardens, we go to look for the old Temple church, with it's circular tower. End up initially at St Brides Church which is traditionally the church for journalists. Eventually find St Mary's Temple (behind an anonymous black door off Fleet Street). While it was badly damaged in World War II, it is much as it was when then the Templars owned it upto the 14th century. The state handed it over to the lawyers in the 17th century and it sits in the middle of the Inns, peaceful, elegant and little known. It's good to know that Christianity believes that journalists and lawyers are both redeemable.

Go along Fleet Street and pop into the Twinings shop which is based at the original tea shop of the early 18th century. Also find some exotic 19th century decoration in the foyer of the Lloyds Law Courts branch.

In the evening Steve and Rob wander aimlessly around the South Bank, eating, drinking, and catching up. The signs of autumn are back in the air.

4/11: last full day in London. Get to Ottolenghis for breakfast at last. Great food, though suspiciously like dinner. Do some final shopping, and get ourselves sorted out for the next day. The temperature has gone down 10 degrees and the humidity up 50%. in the evening go to the Masala Zone in Covent Garden. Another example of combining chain eating and good food. They explain the food, how best to enjoy it and even give tips on what to do when you get to Kerala. Really tasty and good value. Everything now packed but alarmingly with some space available in the bags.